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About Bob Miller

Explore free woodworking plans and projects designed for any skill level - beginning craftsman to advanced woodworker. Discover online shopping resources for the hardwood materials, supplies and hardware needed to bring your free plans to life!

Featured Free Woodworking Plan

Cherry Bookshelf Plan


The design of this bookcase is simple enough to build in one day and finish over the following few evenings. It's composed of just thirteen pieces that are dadoed and screwed together, and all the joinery and shaping is done with a table saw and drill press.

The details of this bookcase are reminiscent of the Arts and Crafts style with its slatted ends and pyramid topped posts and slats. We chose cherry for its lighter appearance, but you can use other woods, particularly quartersawn white oak, which would be more in keeping with the style the bookcase is based upon.

 

Material List and Buying Guide



Material List

T x W x L (in inches)
1 Posts (4) 1-1/2 x 1-1/2 x 32
2 Center Slats (2) 1-1/2 x 1-1/2 x 30
3 Shelves (3) 3/4 x 11 x 40
4 Slats (4) 3/4 x 3/4 x 30
5 Screw Hole Plugs (30) 3/8 x 1/2
6 Square-X Screws (30) #6 x 1-1/2



Buying Guide

Posts: Purchace 200 linear inches of 1-3/4 x 1-3/4 Cherry Stock and specify lengths of 4x34 and 2x32. This will allow you to plane your pieces to size and square the ends.
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Shelves: Purchase 252 linear inches of 3-3/4 x 3/4 Cherry Stock, plus 126 linear inches of 4-3/4 x 3/4 Cherry Stock and specify lengths of 42" each piece (for a total of 9 pieces). This will give you enough to edge-join the pieces to make sturdy shelves, and to square off the ends.
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Slats: Purchase 32 linear inches of 3-3/4 x 3/4 Cherry Stock. You can rip this into the four 3/4 x 3/4 pieces you need.
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Screw Hole Plugs: Purchase 1 pack of 3/8" Cherry flat-top plugs.
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Screws: Purchase 1 bag of #6 x 1-1/2" Square-X Drive Screws.
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Cut and Glue Your Pieces


The shelves (pieces 3) are made by edge gluing several boards together. Make the shelves slightly oversize in width and length so they can be cut to their finished dimensions of 11" by 40" after the glue dries. Using two or three boards per shelf, alternating their end grain growth rings, will significantly reduce the chance of warping. Try choosing boards with matching grain patterns and color. Edge gluing alone is sufficient to make strong shelves, although you could use dowels, splines, or biscuits in the joints to help keep the boards aligned during the clamping process.

Once the glue has cured, cut the shelves to their finished dimensions. Now cut the posts (pieces 1) and the slats (pieces 2 and 4) to their finished dimensions. Make the screw hole plugs (pieces 5) from scrap cherry with a 3/8" plug cutter chucked in your drill press. Now you're ready to cut the dadoes in the posts and center slats for supporting the shelves, and to form the pyramid on the top end of each post and slat.

 

Cutting the Dadoes and Pyramids



Carefully layout the dado locations on the posts and center slats. Use a set-up block clamped to your table saw fence for cutting the 3/4" wide by 3/4" deep dadoes, and be sure to test your cuts on scrap before cutting into the bookcase pieces. Start by cutting the top and bottom dadoes in the posts, then the one for the middle shelf. Follow the same steps for the center slats after the posts are done. Make sure the dadoes on each piece are all exactly 12" apart; otherwise it will be difficult, if not impossible, to assemble the bookshelf.

For the pyramids on the posts and center slats, tilt the blade 15 degrees and adjust the fence set-up so the blade cuts to the middle of the stock. Test your set-up on scrap wood first to make sure it works right. Once you're satisfied, cut the tops of the pieces, then readjust your set-up and cut the tops of the slats (pieces 4).

Drill 3/8" diameter x 3/8" deep counterbores at the screw hole locations in the posts and slats, then drill pilot holes through the stock at the center of each counterbore.

Sand the pyramids with sandpaper wrapped around a wood block, being careful not to alter the shapes too much. Start with 100 grit paper and work up to 180 grit. Once the pyramids are well formed, sand the rest of the bookshelf to 180 grit. Be sure to ease all the sharp edges.

 

Assembly and Finishing


Put the shelves and posts together to see if everything fits correctly, and when you have the pieces situated and the unit is square, extend the pilot holes into the ends of the shelves. Use #6 1-1/2" Square-X Screws (pieces 6) to secure this assembly. Now add the slats to the shelves. Glue the screw hole plugs into the counterbores then, when the glue dries, trim and sand tile plugs flush with the posts and slats. Now you’re ready to do the finishing.

Given the light use this bookshelf will receive, Danish oil seems like the right choice of finish, and it will allow the cherry to darken naturally. It's also one of the easiest ways to finish a piece with so many narrow spaces and slats. Let the finish cure for a few days, then the bookcase should be ready to go. If you do your finishing carefully, you may find that it's tough to cover your beautiful shelves with books. During the course of the first year I do recommend shifting the books and knickknacks frequently as the wood color deepens. This will ensure an even finish as the patina develops.

 

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Plan adapted from Today's WoodworkerTM Magazine, Issue 19, January 1992.
Copyright 1999, Freeplans.comTM